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Less Than Zero I crashed my beautiful red VFR Friday July 3. It happened on the Blue Ridge Parkway and was witnessed by my friend Angel. I’m glad Angel was there because it was no small task to extract the bike from the brushy incline and wet grass. In fact a big thanks goes out to Angel, a Jeep Owner, and another kindly stranger who helped stop traffic whilst we muscled the VFR upright again. So, what happened ? Obviously a skilled experienced pilot such as myself ( ahem) must have faced some type of overwhelming technical challenge or a laser death ray straight out of 1950s comi
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Voided, All, +1 from me. Any takers on reviving this old query? My initial thought is it would require new rearsets to work with the RB linkage. Assuming upshift only anyway if the mod is possible.
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A few available on Yahoo Japan - http://buyee.jp/item/search/query/nc35/category/2084008672?sort=cbids&order=d&translationType=1 Bring back one for me
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Added the Raptor Shift light over the weekend. Wiring done as follows.. 1) Power : Didnt want to take chances with anything related to engine so tapped into the "Black/Red" wire heading to the Flasher. Its a direct power source from fuse#3. 2) Ground : took it straight to the frame 3) Pulse : connected to the coil. 4) Launch Mode : Wire left it open (not connected to anything) One QUERY - WHAT is the difference between LAUNCH mode and SHIFT mode ? - Anyone used this feature.
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Here's is some information I Googled that may be relevent to the bad ground issues from: Dielectric vs. Conductive Grease to Protect Connectors and Grounds. [Query:] You have repeatedly recommended the application of dielectric grease to underhood wire connections. Isn't the insulating property of such grease counter to the goal of IMPROVING the integrity of electrical connections? I would think that a conductive paste (such as Eastwood's Kopr-Shield) would be better. The only potential downside I can think of is that sloppy application could cause short circuits, but care and common sense
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Ah this is the piece that causes the bomb-out so I will split it up more until I find the error. HOW I DID IT I got a spare set of headers posted to me by Trace. I was going to make the muffler out of 0.9mm stainless cold bent to shape. Fortunately I read the thread on de-gutting a 6th gen exhaust where I saw that those mufflers have quite a thick wall. 6th gen de-gut thread Magellan & Lobster answered my query about the wall thickness so I changed to 1.6mm stainless. Now I needed to heat the stainless with oxy/propane to bend it. I had made a bending jig of a piece of 40x40
